lndrasan, Punjab. The Kyoto University Punjab Himalaya Expedition consisted of Professor of Biochemistry Konoshin Onodera, leader, Toshiaki Sakai, deputy leader, and the students Yoshitsugi Omori, Kojiro Tomita, Jiro Tanaka, Yasumasa Miyaki and Tokyo Iwase. Sakai, a graduate student of geography, had climbed Noshaq (24,574 feet) in the Hindu Kush in 1960. The Sherpas were Dawa Thondup, Lhakpa Tsering and Gyndin. We arrived by train at Pathankot at the beginning of September and traveled to Kulu by bus, and from Bhuntar to Jari by mule caravan. We then ascended the Malana valley with 40 coolies. After a three-day march, on September 17 we established Base Camp at 12,500 feet on the right bank of the Malana river, two miles below the snout of the Malana glacier. This glacier was badly crevassed. Camp I at 14,750 feet was a mile and a half below the icefall, which was 2300 feet in height, and Camp II at 17,400 feet at its upper edge. Camp III was on the Malana névé. Tomita and Miyaki made the first ascent of lndrasan (20,410 feet) on October 13, reaching the summit at 4:30 p.m. after a 12-hour climb on steep rock and ice on the southwest face. They bivouacked in the snow at 20,175 feet and returned to Camp III at 3 p.m. on the 14th. The sixth ascent of Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) was also made on October 13 by Omori, Tanaka and Iwase with the Sherpa Gyndin.

Konoshin Onodera, Kyoto University Alpine Club