American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Nilgiri. The Netherlands Himalayan Expedition, led by myself with Dr. T. de Booy as deputy, further consisted of the following Dutchmen: Dr. J. W. A. Bodernhousen, H. J. Nijhuis, Dr. G. Schaar, (all heretofore mentioned are geologists), Dr. A. Tammes, surgeon, and P., P. F. J., and H. C. van Lookeren Campagne. The climbing team was led by our famous French friend Lionel Terray. This team worked with 10 Sherpas and 150 porters. After flying from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Nilgiri (“Blue Mountain”) (23,071 feet) was reached via the Kali Gandaki gorge. On October 1 a general Base Camp was established near the village of Jomosom, north of Tukuche. After a brief reconnaissance, it was decided to attack from the north, via the north face and west ridge. On October 6 an alpine base was established at the foot of the mountain at 13,500 feet, on the 7th Camp I at 17,700 feet and on the 10th Camp II at 19,350 feet on a promontory which stands out from the face of the mountain. From here the two summit parties took time preparing the route to the west ridge for the Sherpas. On October 18 Camp III was established on the ridge at 21,000 feet and on the 19th the summit was reached by Terray, the three van Lookeren Campagne brothers and Sirdar Wongdhi. Our only bad luck was de Booy’s bronchitis, which prevented his going to the summit. The geological party made a reconnaissance of the Thakola region, among other things establishing the stratigraphy of the Tibetan series.

C. G. Egeler, University of Amsterdam

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