American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Jugal Himal, Big White Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Jugal Himal, Big White Peak. The objective of our expedition, which was under the sponsorship of the Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions, was the Big White Peak (23,240 feet). The reason why we prefer this name to Löngpo Gang, suggested by Toni Hagen, is that Löngpo is simply the name of a small hamlet and that the mountain has many different names, even at the foot of the mountain. We reached Base Camp at 13,370 feet on March 24 after an eleven-day march from Kathmandu. Camps with altitudes and dates when established follow: Camp O, 14,275 feet, March 28; I, 14,500 feet, March 31; II, 16,470 feet, April 11; III, 17,650 feet, April 14; IV, 18,500 feet, April 16; V (Advance Base Camp), 19,950 feet, April 17; VI, 21,160 feet, April 28; VII, 22,475 feet, April 30. On May 3 Kuzunari Yasuhisa and Tadashi Morita started from Camp VII at six a.m. It was fine weather but strong wind was blowing from the west at 60–70 km.p.h. The climbing consisted of an almost perpendicular ice wall and a knife-edged ridge. After many technical difficulties they stood on the summit at 2:03 P.M., showing to the world the national flag of Nepal as well as that of Japan, and came back to camp in safety at 6:30. On May 5 Yukihiko Kato and Makato Takashima stood on the summit at 9:30 A.M. and in succession Masahito Akiyama, Dr. Yoshikazu Ishida and Deputy Leader Mitsuri Nakano enjoyed the summit at 11:30. This means all members except Leader Takahashi succeeded in reaching the summit. Takahashi was staying at Camp VI then. From the summit we could command a view to Gosainthan to north, Everest to east and Langtang Lirung to west.

Akira Takahashi, Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions

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