AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains

Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains. On previous visits to this area a semi-circle of unclimbed peaks had been noticed lying around the large glacial basin at the head of S-4 Creek, a southern tributary of the upper Canoe River. The highest of these peaks was estimated as about 10,500 feet. Other climbing parties had attempted to ascend S-4 Creek, but had been turned back by the dense bush and precipitous canyons of this side valley. While climbing in this area in 1961, a possible alternative route into the S-4 basin had been observed. This approach was by way of S-3 (Long) Creek and over a high, but fairly easy ridge into the S-4 basin. Our 1962 expedition, during the first two weeks of July, used this route successfully. The party consisted of Ruth Henderson, Helen Devereaux, Dave Fisher, Wally Joyce, Pat Boswell, Gerry Neave and I. Cars were taken up the Canoe River logging road almost to S-3 Creek. Four days were then spent in backpacking supplies and equipment up S-3 Creek and establishing a climbing camp above timberline in snow-covered alplands below the ridge leading over into the S-4 basin. On July 7 we climbed the ridge, descended to the glacier on the far side and made the ascent of the highest peak of the group. This peak is immediately to the south of the ridge and was entirely a glacier and snow climb. On July 8 ascents were made of two peaks southwest of our campsite, estimated at somewhat under 10,000 feet, and lying on the divide between S-3 and S-4 Creeks. The night of July 9 our party bivouacked in a cave on top of the ridge, and next day, after a long slog across glaciers, climbed the second highest peak of the group by the northeast ridge. This good-looking peak lies on the divide between S-4 and the North Thompson River and provided some interesting and varied climbing. Estimated elevation is 10,200 feet. The four peaks climbed are unnamed and were all first ascents. Camp was broken the morning of July 12 and a day of backpacking took us out to the cars.

Roger Neave