North America, United States, Colorado—Hallett Peak, Right Wall of the Third Buttress

Publication Year: 1963.

Hallett Peak, Right Wall of Third Buttress. Butch Van Tongeren and I started our new route on July 30 about 300 feet right of the regular Northcutt-Carter route. The first pitch ascends a ramp from left to right to a belay on a small ledge below a vertical black wall. We climbed the wall for 40 feet and angled left to a tiny belay on a thin slab. From here we ascended left to a huge grassy terrace, which we followed also left for 50 feet to a belay below a great white wall. The next two leads climb a deep trough, passing several overhangs; the first belay is on a tiny pillar and the second at the base of a long black chimney, which we followed for two rope-lengths more until we reached the base of a horrible, flared, 15-foot overhanging crack. After dealing with this extreme problem, we were able to unrope for 200 feet before tackling a very difficult vertical pitch, which led to the summit after hours of climbing.

Layton Kor, Colorado Mountain Club