American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado—Sharkstooth, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Sharkstooth, South Face. On July 21 Charlie Roskosz started up a steep ramp, which we had decided was the best possibility for the beginning of the route. The first pitch went slightly left for 40 feet and then up and right for another 60 to a grassy terrace. We traversed right along the terrace before climbing vertically up steep cracks to a belay behind a big pillar. The third full lead followed the cracks and flakes above. After a slight descent, we climbed diagonally left up the face. The next pitch continued left over a difficult overhang and ended at a very exposed belay. The following lead continued straight up very broken rock through a vertical white crack to a belay on the summit ridge. Another short pitch put us on top after a climb of six hours.

Layton Kor, Colorado Mountain Club

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