Warbonnet, Northeast Face. From Camp on Lonesome Lake at about nine in the morning in August, Eric Beck and I walked up toward Jackass Pass to see whether the route we had picked out on the northeast face of Warbonnet would go. A steep snow slope led up to a chute which brought us to a wide talus platform at the very base of the wall. We roped up shortly above this point and climbed more or less directly upwards for three pitches. The climbing was mostly class 4 with a few class 5 head-walls to surmount. The third pitch, involving a 5.7 layback, brought us almost to the base of a conspicuous chimney. This chimney leads upwards for 400 feet and terminates on the summit ridge only a few feet away from the summit. The chimney had proved to be easier than it looked, consisting of mainly class 4 climbing. The climb took us about three hours from the base. Seven pitons were placed for protection. We spent a lazy afternoon traversing the ridge which runs north. From the lowest saddle we descended a class 3 ramp to the moraines west of Lonesome Lake. At a small ice-filled tarn we spent several hours watching Fred Beckey and John Rupley, who were climbing on the northwest side of Warrior.

Steven Roper, Sierra Club