American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Point 11,653

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Point 11,653. Continuing the intensive exploration of the environs of Mount Moran, Ted Vaill, Stuart Kearns, and Ben Shapiro made the first ascent of this prominent point on the northwest ridge of Moran on August 31. After taking the boat across Jackson Lake, they hiked up Moran Canyon for two hours, crossed Moran Creek with little difficulty, and climbed up the talus slopes toward the Triple Glaciers. They camped at about 10,000 feet in the middle of a grassy region a few minutes below the western Triple Glacier. The next morning they ascended the right side of the glacier, leaving the snow near the bergschrund for the steep talus and down-sloping slabs of the east face of Point 11,653. They ascended to the ridge just north of the summit block and then worked their way south, finally reaching the summit via a moderate-angle, rotten- rock, exposed chimney from the east. No evidence of previous ascent was found. Descent was made via the same route.

Leigh Ortenburger

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