North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Disappointment Peak, Northwest Chimney

Publication Year: 1963.

Disappointment Peak, Northwest Chimney. Art Gran and John Hudson on July 5 made a new route on the northwest face of Disappointment Peak by selecting the distinct ledge and chimney system which is between the northwest crack and the northwest shelf. The climb starts on a large ledge about 250 feet below the Disappointment Peak-Red Sentinel Col. From the end of this ledge the first ascent party scrambled up a short wall to the base of a large, steep, inside corner. After one difficult pitch up this inside corner, crossing from side to side, a traverse to the left was made up and over a very difficult bulge. The chockstone ceiling above was passed on the right to the ledge which was reached after about 90 feet. About 170 feet of easy climbing and scrambling toward the east ridge brought them to the end of the ledge system. A final scramble up to the right took them to a small notch in the crest of the east ridge, which route they followed easily to the summit.

Disappointment Peak, Northeast Face. On August 13 Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost climbed a prominent chimney or crack in the eastern portion of the north face of Disappointment Peak, thereby adding to the growing list of extremely difficult routes which have been made in the Tetons in recent years. For thirteen hours they followed the chimney from the base of the wall, crossing a huge ledge about 550 feet above the start. The chimney continued upward and curved right, eventually ending and turning into crack systems which were face-climbed, usually in good holds. A traverse to the right was then made to a very prominent dihedral which was climbed using aid. Two more pitches straight up ended under overhangs guarding the edge of the summit plateau. A traverse left 50 feet and up over some bulges, followed by a repetition of the same, brought the party to the top. The climb consisted of fourteen pitches, four requiring direct aid; a total of over 70 pitons were driven including several of the bong-bong variety. This climb apparently ranks along with Satisfaction Buttress as one of the most difficult climbs on this popular peak, which at latest count had 26 semi-distinct routes!