American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, No-Escape Buttress Arête, Mount Moran

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

No-Escape Buttress Arête, Mount Moran. First ascent on September 11, 1960 by Al Read and Dave Dornan. On August 21, 1960 Pete Lev and Read did the lower half of the route. They began the climb to the right of the arête, which they reached after two tough leads. The first starts with a difficult flake and then makes two pendulums to the left. The second is all fifth class. The third lead goes a short distance up the ridge to a point where you can leave the ridge to the west. Al and I continued from here by traversing to the right along a fourth-class ledge, which ends in a very difficult fifth-class pitch. The next two leads continue directly up the face in mixed climbing. At one horizontal roof we used a wooden block for direct aid. These leads exit onto a step in the ridge, from which it is easy climbing to the summit of the buttress. This route is one of the more difficult rock problems in the park, although it is not very long. Decimalwise I should grade it 5.8 and 6.4.

David B. Dornan, Sierra Club

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