North America, United States, Utah, North Face of South Peak of Lone Peak

Publication Year: 1963.

North Face of South Peak of Lone Peak. The first ascent of this face, often called the Question Mark Face because of a large question mark near the top, was completed by Fred Beckey and me on September 15. We went in a straight line up an almost single crack, which diagonals up to the left and passes just to the right of the question mark. The first 350 feet of this nearly vertical climb required continuous direct aid; the final 100 feet were very difficult class 5 with very poor protection. In places piton cracks were very bad, and seven bolts were used: three to anchor the two hanging belays, one for safety on the final pitch and the others for aid. About 70 pitons were used in the 2¼ days on the face.

Dan Davis