American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Flying Buttress, West Lone Peak Basin

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Flying Buttress, West Lone Peak Basin. On September 15 Fred Beckey, Dan Davis and I made the first ascent of the buttress to the north of the main peak. Fred led the first pitch, which consisted of a difficult start on microscopic holds; the top portion eased off into some fine jam-crack climbing. I led the second pitch with 30 feet of free climbing, a section of direct aid on four knife-blades and a bolt and 40 feet of enjoyable chimneying. After another short pitch led by Dan, we were confronted with a mass of overhanging blocks. Fred led up for 40 feet on rotten rock and then placed three bolts to the corner of a roof. He next placed a two-inch bong-bong and was lowered to let a fresher man finish the pitch. Dan took over and after reaching the high point, made one more direct-aid move and finished with some excellent free climbing. We finally reached the end of the climb with Fred clearing the last pitch in the dark. The route required 30 pitons and four bolts.

Ted Wilson, Alpenbock Climbing Club

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