North America, United States, Utah, West Face of Lone Peak, The "Book"

Publication Year: 1963.

West Face of Lone Peak. the “Book”. In September, while Fred Beckey and Dan Davis were climbing the Question Mark Wall of Lone Peak, a second new route was being put up the west face by Ted Wilson, Rich and Dick Ream and Court Richards. We climbed 900 feet up the right face of an open book on the south edge of the face, using a system of wonderful, vertical, shallow cracks. The second and fifth leads were of 5.6 difficulty. Two stirrups were used at the end of the second lead to climb a difficult crack to a good belay spot. We used 22 pitons and had excellent protection on the entire climb of 6½ hours.

Richard F. Ream, Alpenbock Climbing Club