American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Packrat, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Packrat, North Face. Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I made the first ascent of the north face of Packrat on September 21. From the center of the base of the face we worked our way up angling ledge systems to the base of the largest slab, which we bypassed by means of a chimney near its left end. From the top of the chimney we climbed diagonally right up more ledge systems to reach a longer ledge angling steeply left, which we followed for about 200 feet; we then ascended to a grassy ledge above it. From there we climbed right onto another ledge, which was the base of the final gully, which led to the summit ridge. Mostly class 3 with an occasional class 4-5 pitch, its main problem was route finding.

Dan Davis

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.