American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Warbonnet, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1963

Warbonnet, North Face. On September 22 Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I climbed the north face of Warbonnet for the first time. From the southeast notch we traversed around the east face on ledges until they ended on a major ridge. We then climbed a chockstoned chimney, the steep lower part of which we bypassed by climbing up a steep slab on the right before returning to the chimney on a ledge. The chimney brought us to a ridge crest, which ended 30 feet higher in a vertical, flawless wall, which we climbed with the aid of seven bolts. Above the bolt ladder, we continued up a steep slab to the summit.

Dan Davis

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