North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Limbo Ledge

Publication Year: 1963.

Limbo Ledge. Several exfoliation slabs may be seen on the southeast face of the Lower Brother. Almost all of these have been climbed, but one, which I named Limbo Ledge, had defeated a number of attempts. Jim Baldwin and I made the first ascent of this 500-foot slab in October. We climbed the east edge of the slab, which, except for the lower 50 feet, consists of a large open book, facing right. Jim very competently led this 50-foot smooth section, which is marred only by an incipient crack system and is the crux of the climb, using rurps and knife blades. The remainder of the route was largely fifth class, although about 15 direct-aid pitons were used. The climb took us five hours.

Steven Roper, Sierra Club