North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Fury, North Rib

Publication Year: 1963.

Mount Fury, North Rib. From our camp on the Challenger Arm, Fred Beckey and I contoured south on the glacier past Crooked Thumb and Phantom to the northwest base of Fury. Here we crossed under the main ice cliff on Fury, rushing through a few avalanche chutes, and climbed left of a snow finger up to a notch on the main rib rising 3000 feet up the north face. The route goes directly up the well-broken rib, usually staying to the right of the crest, and near the top becomes a knife-edged snow ridge which can be traversed to gain the main summit ridge. From this point one final rock pitch completed our new route to the summit of the main east peak. The rock was all class 4 except for where we used occasional safety pitons. The snow was usually very steep and the knife- edged snow crests very exposed. Nine hours were required for the ascent from Base Camp and six hours for the return by an easier route.

Dan Davis, The Mountaineers