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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Snow Creek Wall, Orbit Route

Snow Creek Wall, Orbit Route. A second route on the southern half of this slabby 900-foot granite wall was completed in early November after a series of previous attempts had been frustrated by short daylight and early-season snowfall. The route, which starts at a large tree directly beneath an overhang high on the face, led up very thin chrome-alloy-piton cracks with small holds into a shallow furrow. This held promise of continuing toward the overhanging capstone on the wall at a place where it appeared that it could be climbed by a ramp. However, since this lead took 17 pitons and most of the daylight, we had to retreat, leaving ropes. On the final and successful day, Dan Davis and I found a route, largely free-climbing except for occasional aid in the furrow. The final pitch was climbed in the dark. Although a difficult route, perfect rock, small holds and exposure combine to make this a classic climb in this area. Four permanent bolts were left in place on the crux lead.

Fred Beckey