South Face of Prusik Peak, Cashmere Crags. Although we had reserved the first ascent of the 900-foot south face of Prusik Peak for the visit of the French climbers, Guido Magnone and Jean Coure, poor organization on the part of their sponsors and their decision to retreat because of lack of time only 200 feet from the summit prevented their completing the climb. From a camp near Enchantment Lakes established by an air-drop, Magnone, Coure, Les MacDonald and I had pushed the route up the beautifully clean granite slabs and cracks of the face. An interesting free chimney began the ascent, followed by a pitch of continuous chickenheads on a sheer slab. The day’s climbing was all fifth class with the exception of 100 feet of aid at the high point, 200 feet below the summit. Several days later Dan Davis and I climbed back up the route and found that between the high point and the summit notch there were only two pitches requiring just three pitons for aid and several more for safety. One hanging belay was used. The final summit horn was done by a new variation; we used a bong-bong crack for aid instead of lassoing the final horn. This wall, in the opinion of the writer, is both the longest ascent and of the most sustained interest in the crags.

Fred Beckey