North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier, Russell Cliffs

Publication Year: 1963.

Mount Rainier, Russell Cliffs. The previously unreported first ascent of these cliffs was completed in July, 1960, by Dave Mahre, Jim Kurtz, Don Jones, and Gene Prater. From a camp at Steamboat Prow, we crossed the Winthrop Glacier as soon as the snow was firm in the evening. The “Winthrop Trough”, a rapidly moving section of the glacier, forced the ascent to almost 11,000 feet before the traverse to the snow slopes of the lower cliff could be completed. We traversed to the north, and climbed a 600- foot snow gully ending just below the lowest extension of the snowfields above 12,500 feet. From here the slog to the summit was straightforward, the entire ascent taking about 10 hours. Rockfall danger makes it advisable to gain the upper snowfields before dawn.

Gene Prater, Cascadians