American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Yugoslavia, Triglav

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Triglav, Yugoslavia. (This climb has been included because it is in a region not frequently visited by American climbers.—Editor.) Triglav, in the Julian Alps, is in the northwestern corner of Yugoslavia and is its highest peak (9393 feet). It is of limestone and has at least nine climbing routes of 4th to 6th grade on its northeast face. A poor gravel road leads seven miles from Mojstrana to Alijažev Dom (3330 feet), a small hotel with lovely camping sites nearby. In late August I joined two Yugoslav men and one woman, all from Ljubjana, for this climb. We took five hours to go from Alijažev Dom to Triglavski Dom (8251 feet), where we spent the night. The route, known as Tomisskovi Weg, would have been an excellent 4th grade climb in many places if it were not festooned with steel cables, iron pegs and other man-made helps. It is still a good ascent. Early the next morning only one hour was needed for the trip to the summit, again with man-made aids. This is a much coveted spot for all Yugoslavians, and this day (Sunday) over 400 persons made the top. We descended the Prag Weg, also with many iron pegs and cables. Both routes were very interesting.

Don M. Woods

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