American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition. A group of Germans from Traunstein, Karl Brenner, Dietrich von Dobeneck, Otto Huber, Fritz Wagnerberger and Karl Winkler, traveled in late August with a pack train for five days from Jurm in Badakhshan through the upper Kokcha valley to Shahran and Deh Ambi in the Munjan valley. Their first high camp was above Darrah-i-Deh Ambi on one of the glaciers of the Ahmad Baba-i-Dewana range. After surmounting a 2000-foot ice cliff they reached the highest summit of the group, Kollae Ahmad Baba (19,029 feet). They also climbed Bordj Deh Ambi (18,865 feet), Deh Ambi Tower (18,537 feet), Kollae Pierjach (18,439 feet), Djuk Deh Ambi (18,373 feet) and the summits on the left (18,209 feet) and right (17,881 feet) of the ice cliff. They moved from there to the Darrah-i-Shahram, some 20 miles up a tributary of the Munjan. A new Base at 13,000 and a new high camp at 14,650 feet were established. On September 1 they climbed the highest summit, Sarguna (19,882 feet), of the Koh-i-Marchech. Three rock peaks (16,897, 17,225 and 17,061 feet) were also climbed. On September 5 they climbed two subsidiary summits (18,537 and 19,193 feet) of Shahkh-i-Kabud and after a bivouac reached the main summit (20,013 feet). This difficult climb kept them from camp for 57 hours. The expedition returned to Kabul via the Anjuman Pass.

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