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Asia, India, Indian Expedition to Kulu

Italian Expedition to Kulu. An Italian expedition from the Roman section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed in the mountains north of the Parbati River in Kulu. After a week’s approach march, on May 11 they established Base Camp at 12,800 feet in the Dibibokri Nala. Three glaciers descend into the valley from the north. They are identified from east to west as the Main Glacier, Glacier 2 and the West Glacier. They placed Camp I at 14,750 feet near the tongues of the three. Camp II was established at 16,500 feet on Glacier 2 on May 19. On May 23 they set Camp III at 19,250 feet in a col on the divide between their valley and the Bara Shigri Glacier on the southeast ridge of their objective, a 20,830-foot peak drained by both Glacier 2 and the West Glacier. When the weather turned clear on May 27, they decided against continuing on this route and crossed a high col to the West Glacier, where at 17,880 feet they established a new Camp III. At one a.m. on May 30 they left camp and by dawn they had ascended the snow slopes to 19,500 feet, but it took them ten hours to climb the next 800 feet of mixed rock and snow to a little saddle on the rocky southwest ridge. They abandoned that attempt and were not back in camp until eleven p.m. Franco Alletto and Domenico DeRiso left camp at ten p.m. on June 1 on their third attempt to reach the summit. They reached the saddle in a few hours, but the last 500 feet of class 5 climbing took them 12 hours and 20 pitons. They arrived on top at six p.m. The descent took all of the night and most of the next day. The other members of the party were Paolo Consiglio, Dr. Vincenzo Monti and Signora DeRiso.