American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Sisne Himal, etc.

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Kanjiroba Himal, Sisne Himal, etc. Our party, consisting of John Earle, James Burnet and me, with four Sherpas under Sirdar Ang Dawa, left Nepalganj at the beginning of April to explore and map the little known groups named on the Survey of India sheets Sisne Himal, Patrasi Himal, Kanjiroba Himal and Jagdula Lekh. This country lies to the west of the regions visited by Professor Jiro Kawakita in 1958 and by John Humphreys in 1959. (See A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 66-7 and 1961, 12:2, pp. 249-262.) Our approach was from the south, first by way of Sallyana and Jajarkot, and then up the Bheri and Ilagarh Rivers to Lunh, Ila and Kaigaon. For the survey, a base-line from a peak south of Kaigaon to a peak near the Balangra Pass was computed from star observations, with altitudes measured from Chaukri Snow Peak (the nearest accurate point of the Survey of India triangulation of 1925-7). From this base we carried the photo-theodolite triangulation northwards into the Jagdula Khola, fixing the positions and heights of most of the main peaks surrounding this valley. From Base Camp in the Jagdula Khola we climbed Matathumba, a peak in the Jagdula Lekh to the east of Dr. H. Tichy’s “Passang Peak”. Failing to force a route up the gorge leading into the upper part of the Jagdula Khola, we switched to the western side of the massif and moved Base Camp to Maharigaon. From a valley north of Maharigaon we climbed a peak in the centre of the Sisne Himal. Insects and plants were collected for the British Museum, including a hitherto undescribed yellow primula found in the Sisne Himal. A 16mm film of the map making was shot for B.B.C. Television. We returned by way of Jumla, the Mabu Pass, Dailkh and Surkhet, crossing the flooded Bheri River by dugout and reaching Nepalganj early in July.

John Tyson, Alpine Club

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