Pier Giorgio. Pier Giorgio (9515 feet) is doubtless one of the most important virgin peaks in the beautiful FitzRoy region. Violent and continuous storms have prevented various expeditions from climbing it. The expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires, made up of Nestor Apraiz, Luis Bustalo, Pedro Cardani, Carlos Comesaña, Germán Lion and myself as leader, set out on January 3, 1962. Twelve days later we established Base Camp on the Laguna Torre (3300 feet). Until February 2, when their time ran out, we worked together with the Tucumán expedition led by Professor Orlando Bravo. We set up Camp I at 4075 feet at the foot of Cerro Torre and Camp II at 5850 feet in a snow cave at the foot of the icefall. Despite severe storms we finally surmounted the icefall, a chaotic sea of séracs and crevasses, which led to the plateau, where we established Camp III in a snow cave at 8125 feet. When the clouds dispersed on February 4 we returned to this camp, from which we climbed a steep ice slope of 50° to 70° and then a difficult couloir. We continued with direct aid up a rock wall covered with verglas and bombarded by small chunks of ice. On February 6, only 650 feet from the summit and with only 165 feet of the wall left to climb, we descended to Camp III, leaving the route prepared. The next day we hoped to reach the summit. Unfortunately two of the party were suffering from worse frostbite than we had supposed. A bitter decision cut our dreams short: it was necessary to descend.

Jorge Insúa, Centro Andino Buenos Aires