American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Cuernos del Paine, Patagonia

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Cuernos del Paine, Patagonia. Our group of four university students, José P. Pagano, Norberto Sampietro, Carlos Luis Bonfico and I, left Puerto Natales by truck for the Paine region, where with the help of ranchers, who provided horses, we set up camp on January 6, 1962 at the foot of Paine Este. On the 7th we carried Camp I to the foot of the east face of the Cuerno Principal (Principal Horn) above where Río Leones enters into Lago Nordenskjøld. While the others set up camp on the 8th, Pagano and I made an attempt, but scrub thickets delayed us. Reinforced by Sampietro, we made two more attempts from bivouacs, but the wind drove us back on the 14th and rain on the 18th. Our final attempt, on January 24, was from a new high camp on the western face, but although the route had good possibilities, we returned after seven hours of climbing since the summit was covered by heavy clouds. We also explored the valley between Paine Grande and the Cuernos, which is flanked by towers and has three imposing, heavily glaciated peaks at its head, all of which are virgin.

Bruno Capra, Centro Andino Buenos Aires

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