American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota; Huascarán from the East

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota; Huascarán from the east. A strong Spanish party sponsored by the Federación Española de la Montaña and led by Félix Méndez Torres established Base Camp on June 12 at 15,000 feet southeast of Coylloriti (17,723 feet), which Salvador Rivas and Antonio Pérez Ayuso climbed soon after their arrival. The group made in all some 36 first ascents; these included the peaks they called “Hauser” (17,257 feet), P 16,831, “Guadarrama” (16,568 feet) and P 16,568 on the ridge southwest of Coylloriti; two peaks of 17,503 feet on the ridge northwest of the peak; P 17,225 on the southeast ridge; and P 17,487, P 17,422 and P 17,126 on the ridge running to the northeast. On the southernmost of the two ridges which tend from northwest to southeast from Coylloriti’s northeast ridge they climbed (from west to east) P 17,389, P 17,241, P 17,159, P 17,061, P 17,225, P 17,257, another P 17,257, another P 17,159, another two P 17,225 and “Cataluña” (17,290 feet). On the ridge roughly parallel which lies to the north they ascended (from west to east) “Barcelona” (17,815 feet), “Montserrat” (17,815 feet), P 17,815, P 18,143, P 17,389, P 17,225, P 17,061 and another P 17,225. They climbed the southernmost peak (16,733 feet) of a spur that extends southeast from the ridge. They also ascended on the extension of the main ridge, which juts north and then east, “Punta Aragon” (16,897 feet), “Nuestra Señora del Pilar” (17,061 feet), “España” (17,126 feet), P 17,126, P 17,487 another P 17,126 and P 17,093. A map which appeared in Rivista Mensile No. 9/10 of 1961 makes clear which peaks these are but gives many names which Peruvian officials have indicated are not acceptable and will not be adopted. Which are the second ascents made by the Japanese (see below) is not clear. César Morales Arnao, who supplied most of the above information to the Editor, continues as follows: “They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca to climb the extremely difficult eastern route of Huascarán which had been unsuccessfully attempted by the New Zealanders a year before. (A.A.J., 1961, 12:2, pp. 288-290.) On July 10 they placed their base between Huascarán and Chopicalqui and in the following days fixing ropes and climbing with direct aid, they prepared a route of technical difficulty at considerable risk. Thus on July 18 Rivas, Ayuso and Pedro Acuña and the Peruvian, Fortunato Mautino, reached the south summit of Huascarán (22,205 feet). Another group made up of José Manuel Anglada, Jorge Pons and Francisco Guillamón conquered Huascarán again on the 20th, making three bivouacs. Unfortunately while descending the Raimondi Glacier on the western side, Pedro Acunña fell into a crevasse and perished. They also climbed the Nevados Elola (18,537 feet) and Delgado Ubeda (18,209 feet), elegant prominences on the western ridge of Huascarán to Chopicalqui.” Other members of the party were Dr. Mariano Arrazola, José María Regil, José Antonio Bescós and Juan José Díaz.

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