South America, Peru, German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash

Publication Year: 1962.

German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. An expedition of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV), led by Horst Wels, was dogged throughout by bad luck which finally ended in the tragic death of three of its members, Manfred Jordan, Günther Wolf and Helmut Albrecht. The other members of the party were Manfred Sturm, Jochen Bloss and Eduard Buncsack. In mid-May the climbers reached their Base Camp at Carhuacocha (lake) at 13,575 feet below the east face of Yerupajá. Sturm became so ill with an intestinal infection that he had to be picked up on May 19 by a helicopter of the Peruvian Air Force. Mechanical difficulties forced a landing not far away where they had to stay until mechanics could be sent in who had the plane repaired by May 30. Emergency medical treatment by Major Oswaldo Cabrera had meanwhile brought Sturm through the crisis and he was soon able to return from the hospital in Lima to the mountain. He arrived from Chiquián by mule and on foot at Base Camp before the fatal accident occurred. During his absence the other climbers made the third ascent of Jirishanka Chico (17,936 feet) on May 31. (First ascent by the Austrians W. Mariner and S. Aeberli, July 29, 1954; second ascent by T. Egger, H. Raditschnig, S. Jungmeier and E. Krenmayr, May 9, 1957.) On June 6 they climbed Jurau (18,111 feet) and an unnamed peak of 18,166 feet. Weis, Buncsack, Jordan, Albrecht and Wolf made the first ascent of Carnicero (19,620 feet) on June 9. After being rejoined by Sturm, the entire party was attempting to climb Siulá Chico (20,554 feet) and to traverse the whole Siulá group. They left camp at 18,200 feet at dawn on June 15 and climbed a steep slope to a snowy shoulder and the ridge top. Late in the day they were climbing on two separate ropes, Sturm, Weis and Buncsack having fallen far behind. While Buncsack stayed with the rucksacks to prepare a bivouac, Wels and Sturm climbed onto the third Siulá summit to the south and there saw that their three other companions had descended into the notch between Siulá Grande and Siulá Chico and had followed the ridge towards the latter. (It appears that they must have traversed below the summit of Siulá Chico, for that summit also lies to the south of Siulá Grande.) Since clouds were coming in and night was falling, the pair returned to the bivouac, where they waited in vain for the return of Jordan, Wolf and Albrecht. In the clear light of dawn they saw that the trio’s tracks stopped just short of the summit of Siulá Chico, where a section of 150 feet of cornice had broken off. After seeing what appeared to be three bodies lying 3000 feet below, they returned to their high camp. The next day they visited the scene of the accident but could find no way to descent the western slope of the mountain, the opposite one to their line of approach. In the final work of recovering the bodies, the climbers were joined by the German Rudolf Ludeke and the Peruvians Arturo Bernadini, Segundo Villanueva and Apolonio Yánac.