American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Umanak Fjord, West Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Umanak Fjord, West Greenland. A party from England sailed in Mischief to this region at latitude 71° 30’ N., leaving May 14 and arriving at Igdlorssuit July 18. This is a small Esquimo settlement on Ubekendt Island, but for a party which has to hire transport a better starting point would be Umanak. From an anchorage at the root of the Qioqe Peninsula in a bay called Kangerdlugssuakavsak, E. H. Marriott and I attempted Peak 1996 (metres) but came to a halt about 500 feet from the summit, being unable to go any further. We returned to the boat at 11 P.M., having started at 8 a.m. (The highest peak on Qioqe (2310 metres) was climbed in 1960 from sea level in an 18-hour day by an Italian party led by Piero Ghiglione, aetate 77.) After moving the boat to an anchorage at the northwest tip of the peninsula, the same party, from camp at 1000 feet, climbed Peak 1864 (6116 feet), an interesting climb of which the crux was the crossing of a steep ice couloir. The rock sections of the climb were very loose. Finally from a camp at 2000 feet we climbed Peak 1961 (6434 feet), some seven miles up the Quvnertussok Glacier on Upernivik Island. There are several good peaks on this island and we felt that we had made a mistake in not spending all our time there. Mischief sailed for home on August 12 and arrived September 26. On account of the number of fine mountains packed into a small area, the excellent weather which generally prevails and the 24-hour long days, this region can be recommended. N.B. It was not easy to reconcile the peaks on the ground with those on the map (Maps 71 V 1 and 71 V 2 1:250,000, Geodetic Inst. Denmark), so that some of these identifications may be wrong.

H. W. Tilman

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