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North America, Canada, Coast Range, Papoose Rock

Papoose Rock. Of the many satellite rocks near the Squamish Chief, the Papoose is one of the most important. It rises above the ferry dock some four miles south of Squamish, and can be seen in profile against the much larger Chief from the road. Jim Baldwin and I had made an abortive attempt on the 400-foot west face one rainy day early in May. On August 15 I returned, this time with Dave Hiser. We decided to try the same route—a series of cracks and ledges on the right central portion of the face leading to a 150-foot diagonal overhang leaning against the 75° face. We bypassed bolts from an earlier attempt by the use of knife blade pitons and gained the tree ledge. From here we worked up and to the right some 175 feet on mixed artificial and free climbing until reaching the diagonal overhang. Pitons were placed upside down underneath it, with a belay from an insecure dead tree halfway up. Above the overhang the remaining short distance to the summit was class 3 and easier. About 25 pitons were used on this six hour climb.

Edward Cooper