American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Coast Range, Papoose Rock

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Papoose Rock. The west face of Papoose Rock rises sheerly above the new coast highway about five miles south of Squamish ; its general appearance gives rise to its name relationship to the larger Squamish Chief (Goose Rock) several miles north. Local climbers had made attempts on its face but had apparently not ventured more than 200 feet up the approximately 600-foot wall. Because of our late arrival, Eric Bjornstad and I did not have time to climb more than one-third of the face on our first visit. Due to several long traverses, the climb turned out longer than we anticipated, and on a final headwall we had to use four bolts to negotiate a blank section. The route featured an extremely interesting combination aid and free traverse on a very vertical wall during the fourth lead and a traverse on the sixth lead where pitons were pulled out by hand by the second man because of a badly bottoming crack. We used 33 pitons and 5 bolts on this extremely interesting direct ascent up the left central portion of the face.

Fred Beckey

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.