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North America, Canada, Coast Range, Ape Lake Region

Ape Lake Region. On July 30 Sterling B. Hendricks, Donald Hubbard, Alvin E. Peterson and I landed on Ape Lake in the Mount Monarch region of the Coast Range of British Columbia. During the next 25 days we climbed nine peaks, of which four were virgin summits, in an area that is characterized by an extensiveness of snow and ice, a profusion of alpine mountains, a prevalence of good granite rock and delightful glacial tarns and lakes. From a snow cap on the Jacobsen névé at the base of the Mongol massif, we ascended Rimmon, the Higher Mongol, the Lesser Mongol, Ogre and the Higher Jacobsen Mountain, the first three of which appear to be first ascents. Then on one long day, we traversed the icecap and climbed an outlying snow peak beyond the Geryon massif, which we christened "Erewhon Mountain”, also a first ascent. On August 12 a second camp was established on a low rock ridge between Geryon and Satan. The next day, in 20 continuous and tiring hours, we crossed the Erewhon-Geryon col, circled Cerberus from the west arête to the south ridge and ascended the latter to the top. A third camp was pitched on August 16 on a broad meadow of a shoulder of Talchako Mountain above the snout of the Jacobsen Glacier. On the 17th, in snow flurries, mist and clouds, we ascended the granite south face of Talchako. The final climb was attempted from a rocky island on Noeick Glacier below the Iroquois Ridge in the northwestern end of the area. On August 20 we approached Snowside Mountain by way of its eastern rock ridge. Immediately below the summit we reached a dome of hard ice covered with a thin veneer of snow. After chopping steps up this to within 200 feet of the top, we retreated and returned to camp by moonlight. On August 25 a de Haviland Beaver evacuated us to Vancouver.

Arnold Wexler