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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Allen, Goodsirs Group

Mount Allen, Goodsirs Group. On July 21, Gertrude Smith, Don Redman, Bernie de Vos and I made the third ascent of Mount Allen by a new route. Climbing from the Canadian Alpine Club Camp we crossed the lower Vaux Glacier to about the middle of the south face, where two couloirs form a "V”. Selecting the left couloir, an 80-foot lead up outward-sloping slabs led to easier going above. The couloir was followed to the top of a small snow patch high on the mountain. A short traverse left led to a 15-foot vertical crack, which was ascended partly as a layback. Another traverse to the left and a short ascent over broken rock, led to the summit. The descent was by the west ridge.

Roger Neave