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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Climbs in the Northern Rockies near Redfern Lake, B.C.

Climbs in the Northern Rockies Near Redfern Lake, B. C. Two weeks of excellent weather contributed to the success of an expedition to the hitherto unvisited mountains in the vicinity of Redfern Lake. Members of the expedition were Robert West (leader), Scott Arighi, Mike Petrilak, and I. On August 5, we landed on Redfern Lake after a very scenic flight with the pilot, Pen Powell, from Charlie Lake near Fort St. John on the Alaska Highway. By making occasional use of a caterpillar trail made by oil prospecting crews, a camp was established at about 6500 feet in a heather-covered basin south of Great Snow Mountain (9500 feet). From this camp two first ascents were made, Great Snow Mountain and Great Rock Peak (9400 feet). A quick, unsuccessful attempt was also made on 9200-foot Mount Circe. On August 11 the camp was moved to a position from which Mount Ulysses could be attacked. The site chosen was between the north lateral moraine and the hillside at 5800 feet along the glacier which flows from Mount Ulysses to the Besa River. This glacier was dubbed the Achaean Glacier. The next few days were spent in climbing Mounts Penelope, Telemachos, Eurylochos, Calypso and several other subsidiary summits all of which are close to 9000 feet. From these summits the best route up Mount Ulysses was plotted and on August 16 we climbed the peak via the north ridge and northeast face, circumnavigating the summit icecap in the process. With an elevation of about 9900 feet this mountain is the highest in the area and may turn out to be the highest peak in northeastern British Columbia. Following this climax the party returned to Redfern Lake and was flown back to Fort St. John on August 19. A more complete account of these climbs will appear in the Canadian Alpine Journal.

Arthur Maki