American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Sawback Range, Mount Louis

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Mount Louis. A new route on the south face of Mount Louis was made on August 30 and 31. The climb ascends from the lower end of the amphitheater for 250 feet up a thin crack, which is not difficult after the first rope length. The route then traverses right on slabs and ledges for 150 feet to an intersection of four cracks, from where a crack is followed upward for 150 feet, then right for 50 feet onto a pronounced ledge. From here the route leads up over slabs and into a narrow chimney, which is followed for 100 feet to the base of a 150-foot inside corner. The first 70 feet of this corner are the crux of the climb, and here two pitons were placed, one for direct aid. Above, the route ascends a large gully for 200 feet, and then traverses left and slightly upward over smooth slabs, crossing two smaller gullies, to a point below a pronounced buttress. The normal route is now joined at the point where it crosses from the east to the south side of the mountain, by ascending to the right of the buttress. Nine and a half hours were required for the ascent from the base to the summit. The members of the party were Christian Von Allmen, Clair Brown, Jeff Pope and Hans Gmoser.

Hans Gmoser, Alpine Club of Canada

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