East Peak, Mount Logan. During June and July Albert Nickerson, Jr., Leif Patterson, Edward Carman, Jr., Walter Gove and I made the third ascent of the east ridge of the east peak of Mount Logan. All except Gove are members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club. Between June 18 and 21 we were flown from Kluane Lake to within a half mile of the north face of the east ridge at 8000 feet by Jack E. Wilson, a bush pilot from Glenallen, Alaska. The 1000-foot snow and ice north face, not previously ascended, was climbed directly to reach the east ridge on the night of the 21st. This required nearly eight hours, most of it on the last 300 feet, which is ice and averages over 60°. This was the most difficult section of the climb technically. A pulley and A-frame were used to haul a loaded sled up this part. Between June 22 and 30 we moved up the ridge, placing camps at 9000, 9500, 11,000 and 12,600 feet. Between 11,500 and 13,000 feet about 1000 feet of fixed rope were placed. On the night of July 1 a camp was established at 14,000 feet. The next morning a storm broke which prevented any further movement for six days. Around midnight on the 7th we finally reached the summit plateau at 15,000 feet. It snowed again during the 8th but cleared enough in the afternoon for us to set up high camp at 17,000 feet after dark. Our principal objective was the central summit, which had not been reached by the previous parties of 1957 and 1959 from the east. Because it snowed in the morning and was unsettled in the afternoon, Patterson and Nickerson did not set off on the 9th until six p.m. They climbed to the southeast ridge of the east peak and followed this to the summit (19,765 feet). The section was technically easy, as was all of the mountain above 15,500 feet. The summit was reached at ten in dense fog and a high wind. The two-hour descent to camp was accomplished in an increasingly violent storm, which continued uninterrupted for 54 hours with frightful winds. Because of the unsettled weather, the attempt on the central summit was abandoned on the 12th and the descent began, which required three days in the bad weather and deep snow. All caches were buried by six feet of snow. A spell of better weather came in on the 13th and the party was flown off the glacier, beginning on July 14.

Boyd N. Everett, Jr.