American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Alpine Lakes Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Alpine Lakes Region. We enjoyed twelve days of exploring the Alpine Lakes region. Our approach was from Elk Heart Park through Bald Mountain Basin. Instead of using Angel Pass, we climbed northwest from the basin up a canyon and crossed the divide about two miles north of Angel Peak. We continued northwest, descended to the drainage system which passes east to empty into Third Lake, and skirted the southern shoulders of Peak 244 (Bonney’s number, as are the rest of the identifications) to gain the horse and sheep trail which leads north from Third Lake. We followed this trail, which passes north between Peaks 243 and 244, then east between Peak 243 and an unnumbered peak east of Peak 190. From Base Camp on a pond at the foot of the east face of this unnumbered peak, all five of us, Harold May, Jack Grenier, Roy Scharf, Griff June and I, on July 20 made the first ascent of Peak 243 (11,900 feet) by its long curving north ridge and north summit. This involved slab scrambling until the summit block was reached, where there were two or three rope lengths of grade 3 rock climbing on high-angle flakes. We traversed the ridge crest of Peak 243, erecting cairns on four of its five summits, and since there were five climbers, we named it "Mount Quintet." The west summit is highest. On July 21 May, Scharf and I made the first ascent of the unnumbered peak which Bonney apparently confused with Peak 190 (B.M. 12,300 feet on the Fremont Quadrangle). We ascended the southeast ridge, over slabs below and great broken flakes above, where three pitches required a rope. The broad summit is covered with piles of rock platters (12,100 feet). It is separated from Peak 190 by a long narrow col, having very steep scree slopes on both sides. Its summit commands a magnificent view of the valley of the Alpine Lakes and gives tantalizing glimpses of the northern peaks, Fremont, Helen, Gannett, Warren, etc. We descended the west face by a series of narrow grassy ledges to the scree slope leading down to Lower Alpine Lake and returned to camp by circling the peak on the north. On July 23 all five of us made the first ascent of Peak 241 (11,900 feet), approaching by crossing the cataracts of Lower Alpine Lake outlet, across the east shoulder of our peak to gain its northern slopes. These are good solid rock and provide an easy grade 2 scramble to the summit. We confirmed that Middle Alpine Lake does not empty into Lower Alpine Lake, as shown on the Fremont Quadrangle, but by a stream which passes between Peak 241 and the

Brown Cliffs, and it empties into a tarn not shown on this map. Our last days in the region were spent exploring it.

John A. Woodworth, Appalachian Mountain Club

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