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North America, United States, Wind River Range, Doublet

Doublet, Wind River Range. Our group made the ascent of Doublet from the Dinwoody Glacier via the couloir between Warren and Doublet. Bonney does not report any previous ascent of this route. On June 27, in lowering weather, we ascended the Dinwoody Glacier to the foot of the couloir. Although there was much less snow than is normal at that time of the year, the first bergschrund was well bridged and the snow good. It was cold and windy as we ate a quick second breakfast in the little basin above the first schrund and below the point where the two gulleys part to cut Doublet from Warren on the left and Dinwoody on the right. We put on our crampons and headed for the bergschrund at the foot of the left couloir. Although we got one good ice-axe belay, the ice began almost immediately and continued until the angle lessened near the top of the gulley. We placed ice screws nearly every 60 feet, using seven in all. After reaching the col between Warren and Doublet just to the right of the Dames Anglaises, we continued up the normal route to the summit of Doublet. This route would have been much easier at this season in a normal year when the couloir would still have been filled with firm snow. The party consisted of Don Anderson, Douglas Bingham, Bob Held, Sam Streibert, Stephen White, Edward M. Guild, Jr., Frederic B. Jennings, Jr., Charles Stillman, William Rogerson, Alexander White, Lawrence Scott, Peter Carter (aged 13), Lawrence Carter (aged 12) and me.

H. Adams Carter