American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Klondike Lake Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

Klondike Lake Region, Wind River Range. Bob Held and I made several first ascents in the Klondike Lake region of the Wind River Range before joining Adams Carter’s group. On June 20, from camp on the south side of Klondike Lake we climbed a prominent peak on the same side of the lake by a rock rib in its north face. We found no cairn or record of ascent. There appears to be no Bonney number for this ca. 12,300-foot peak. (cf. Orrin H. and Lorraine Bonney, Guide to Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, Denver, 1960.) The next day we set out around the southeast side of the lake and climbed the rise until we could see that we were at the northeast opening of a bowl formed on the south by a ridge of two summits, which is the next promontory north of Bastion. (These are probably Bonney’s Peaks 141 and 141 2nd, but they are at least 500 feet lower in altitude than Bastion.) The bowl is bounded on the west by Peak 140, which has a fine east face and is 250 feet lower than Bastion, and on the north by what we are sure is Pedestals, although Bonney calls it "Klondike." We traversed the ridge over Peak 141 2nd to 141 and finding no cairns or records, we left some. We descended into the bowl and traversed over to the base of the east face of Peak 140, which we ascended by as direct a route as possible (grades 4 and 5). We found a cairn with four names in it of a party which had climbed the peak in 1960, having come from Pedestals. From there we traversed north on a talus ridge to Pedestals, where we found a cairn and summit records. We descended the east ridge to camp. On June 22 we made a new route up the north corner of Bastion. We skirted the lower talus on a snow slope to the west before scrambling some 150 feet and climbing two small pinnacles on the ridge to reach the bottom of the vertical pitch about 300 feet below the summit. Thence we ascended 20 feet on a line 10 feet right (west) of the corner, traversed to the corner on obvious quartz crystals and ascended another 20 feet bearing slightly right of the corner to under an overhang. We surmounted an outsloping ledge under the overhang and traversed left back to a belay spot on a boulder on the corner. We proceeded around the corner to the left, dropping down onto obvious holds, to traverse 10 feet onto the northeast face. We belayed there for the last lead, which ascends through a short chimney back to the corner and onto an easy scramble to the summit.

Sam Streibert, Yale Mountaineering Club

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