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North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Teepe's Pillar, Northeast Face

Teepeā€™s Pillar, Northeast Face. On August 24 Royal Robbins and Jane Taylor climbed this route which lies between the direct east-face route of Merriam and the north face route of Chouinard, passing by difficult direct- aid climbing the band of nearly vertical rock which seems to encircle the Pillar. Just to the right of the edge of the east face, this party climbed diagonally upward on easy rock to a right-angle recess directly below a huge roof which is on the east ridge or face. After 100 feet in the recess the easy climbing continued in a zig-zag manner on two slab-ledges. Direct aid was required in climbing right and up from the second ledge to an overhang which was passed to the right. A recess containing two black overhangs was then reached and climbed. A gully then led to a small notch, just beyond which is a ledge leading out to the north-face route. More direct-aid climbing left and up followed by face climbing brought the party to a broad sloping ledge from which a traverse left around a corner to the old east-face route was made. The final 150-foot wall was not attempted because of lack of time and the fact that a large number of bolts would apparently be required.