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North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Middle Teton, Northeast Face

Middle Teton, Northeast Face. This climb by Royal Robbins and Jane Taylor on August 16 is perhaps the most difficult yet completed in the Tetons. It ascends the ledges and cracks at the corner of the north face and the east face of the summit block of the Middle Teton. From the glacier a prominent ledge that slants steeply upward to the right was ascended for 400 feet by moderate climbing to a broad, grassy area some 25 feet wide. Direct aid was then used to climb a crack in the overhanging wall above. This process was repeated on the next wall and again on the third overhanging wall until a pendulum could be made around a bulge and into a recess on the right. From this recess more direct aid was required to ascend the crack above, bringing the party to some ledges, the second of which provided a convenient belay spot. The next lead, partially aid and partially free, followed cracks in the face above to a steep ledge. The next lead past three overhangs, the first of which was wet, was extremely difficult free climbing (5.9). The final 60 feet to a broad sloping ledge involved poorly protected face climbing and a strenuous jam crack. Considerable use was made on this climb of the newer types of pitons and future parties should carry a good selection, especially of the knife-blade varieties.