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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Kloochman Rock, Main Summit

Kloochman Rock, Main Summit. In September Les Maxwell, Louis Ulrich, and Wally Juneau completed the “South Terrace Route.” About 200 feet east of the beginning of Route # 1 a short westerly scramble took them to an open chimney, followed by a westerly traverse on a terrace to steep slabs leading to a second terrace. They continued westerly past a chimney system to a single open chimney ending in an easy gully to the summit. The following month Maxwell, Ulrich, and Rolla Goold completed a second route. Near the north end of the prominent tree-covered ledge on the southwest face of Kloochman they followed a short chimney headed by a chockstone which lies between two tree groups. The inside face on the left of the chimney was followed by a short left traverse to a similar face which led to a gully system gaining the summit. Both climbs were moderate.

Rock Climbs in the Peshastin Pinnacles, Tumwater Canyon, and Snow Creek Wall. The “Austrian Slab,” a fine friction climb, was done in the pinnacles by Leo Scheiblehrer and Fred Beckey. Beckey and Dave Collins did a new free route on Jello Tower, and Beckey and Eric Bjornstad completed a new route on the north face of Grand Central Tower. The “White Fright” route on Snow Creek Wall was repeated, all 5 th class, and continued above the Great Traverse Ledge to its natural conclusion in three leads of mixed 5th and 6th class climbing. Virtually all routes in the pinnacles are now set with more reliable bolts, and a good summit rappel bolt has been installed on “Stick Snag.”

Cascade Peak, North Face. Almost lost near the great mass of Johannesberg at Cascade Pass is Cascade Peak, a fine peak in its own right with a small hanging glacier below its north face at only 6000 feet. Though the face seems small in comparison with its neighbor, it is some 2000 feet high. In mid September, Glen Denny, George Whitmore and I approached it via Cascade Pass. Below-freezing temperatures, high winds, fresh snow, and the sunless north side made it seem more like a winter climb than an Indian Summer attempt. We were soon at the base of the north rib, a prominent buttress on the west side of the north face. We attacked this buttress directly up the first 350-foot step. All went well over sloping slabs (III-IV) until the last pitch before the first step sloped back (pitons, —VI, non-aid) which was interesting because of a chin-up on a clump of moss. The remaining distance to the summit was mostly class III-IV, the rock for the most part being fair. One unavoidable pitch of scrub firs seemed more difficult than any class VI pitch could ever be. Upon arrival at the summit we found our climb to be the second ascent, the first, in 1950, being up the south side. This seemed amazing for such an attractive peak. Having no clue about the original route, weangled toward the Johannesburg-Cascade Peak col, where a rappel on two 120-foot ropes down a 135-foot, slightly overhanging cliff got us down after considerable confusion, trouble, and near disaster.

Edward Cooper

Correction, Morning Star Peak. This peak was incorrectly reported in the A.A.J., 1961, p. 367, as having been ascended for the first time in 1960. This peak was climbed in 1940 by Jim Crooks and Sam Holler and even at that time they doubted that it was a first.