American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, The Talon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1962

The Talon. This 4000-foot spire is located across the canyon from the White Pass Highway about five miles east of the pass. The first ascent was made on September 24 by Dave Mahre, Fred Dunham, and Jim Wickwire. Using the Clear Lake approach, the car was left below the 1500-foot-high talus slope on the south side of the canyon. The first lead was on the south side of the spire, over loose rock to a belay point on the southeast corner. This was followed by a lead up the corner to a horizontal crack on the east side, then up a steep, open chimney to a tree, the next belay point The next lead went across and up the east side to the exposed north ridge about thirty feet from the summit. Completing the ascent, the party climbed back down to the tree, where a 240-foot rappel took them to the scree slopes. Piton cracks are scarce, though two were used on the initial lead. The climb is predominantly class five.

Yellow Lichen Towers. These 6800-foot towers, located ½ mile west of the main peak of Ingalls Peak, were first climbed on October 1 by Fred Dunham, Jim Wickwire, and Gene Prater. They can be reached by descending from the 7000-foot Main-South-Peak saddle of Ingalls Peak, or by taking the Teanaway-Fortune Creek trail, descending north 300 feet to Lake Ann, and continuing north through easy meadow country to the towers. The east tower was climbed on the west side from the notch between it and the middle tower—class 3. The middle tower was climbed from the east, using one piton and a rappel bolt on the summit—class 4. The west tower was climbed on the southwest side by traversing across the lower face to a large chockstone in a wide crack. Another crack was followed to the east, where still another crack continues up to the ridge above. Holds are good and the chockstone offers an excellent belay, but the rock tends to fracture out on these short climbs.

Gene Prater, Sherpa Climbing Club

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