North America, United States, Alaska, Blackcap

Publication Year: 1962.

Blackcap. Four members of the Alaska Alpine Club, John Hodsdon, Jim Mack, Ron DeWitt and I made the first ascent of Mount Blackcap (9850 feet) at the head of the Castner Glacier on the weekend of July 16. Leaving the Richardson Highway at eleven P.M. Friday night, we walked three miles up the Castner Glacier and camped on the moraine. On Saturday we carried our camp to 7000 feet eight miles farther up the glacier, using snowshoes above 5000 feet for fast traveling on the snowfields. The ascent of Blackcap was made in five hours up the glacier that flows down the north side of the mountain until we reached the west ridge of the summit cone. The corniced nature of the ridge and the white-out conditions made it necessary to climb well out on the steeper north face. We were fortunate in having the weather clear while we remained on the narrow summit. The view of the eastern Alaska Range and the Wrangells was excellent. The softening of the snow made continuous belaying necessary during the descent to the snowshoes at 8500 feet. We picked up our camp and arrived at the highway fifteen hours later in an unfortunate cold rain squall.

Charles R. Wilson