Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Publication Year: 1961.

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. It seems to be the opinion of many Eastern climbers, and almost the general consensus among those in the West, that the only creditable climbing in the East exists either in the Gunks or at Seneca Rock. For those who share in this feeling, we should like them to join one of our week-end climbs either during the spring or fall. Often overlooked are such well-established climbing areas as Smuggler’s Notch, Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledges, Huntington Ravine, and Franconia and Crawford Notches. There are also many smaller cliffs and faces throughout the White Mountains; the rock is solid as well as difficult, and the climbs vary from one to as many as 10 leads. Several of these areas which the DMC visits regularly are Rattlesnake Mountain, Orford, Eagle Ledges, and Owl's Head near Warren, New Hampshire. The latter climb presents a broad, open face some 800 feet high in places and about a quarter of a mile long. The climbing varies from a 35° friction pitch some 120 feet long to nearly vertical jam-cracks, long laybacks, slab climbing, tension work, and an endless variety of routes and variations. Several of the routes are standard and well marked, while several of us are at work on a bolt-and-tension route of some seven or eight leads that may challenge any in the East.

Such classic areas as Poke-O-Moonshine, Mount King, and the Condor Pinnacle in the Laurentians of Canada provide some of the most challenging climbing in the country. We have also uncovered there a series of ledges several hundred feet high and nearly a mile long that very closely resemble the rock formation of both Seneca and the Gunks. Though only barely investigated, these cliffs could prove as promising as the 'Gunks have been.

The usual large contingent of Dartmouth climbers spent at least part of the summer in the Tetons. Former members Corbet, Breitenbach, French, and Neale served as Exum guides, and Pete Sinclair was one of the climbing rangers. Our members also climbed in the Colorado Rockies, the Mount Hood area, British Columbia, and the Lake Louise area. Tom Marshall was our sole representative in Europe, where he climbed in the Swiss and Austrian Alps.

The next edition of the DMC journal will be published for the years 1961-1962. In order to maintain the journal’s quality, we feel it is necessary to limit its publication to every other year. In the intervening years we plan to send out a newsletter to inform members, friends, alumni, and other climbing clubs of our activities and plans.

FREDERICK W. MEDRICK, President