American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Disteghil Sar. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Wolfgang Stefan climbed Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh of the Karakoram. Having left Nagar on May 12, they had ascended the Hispar and Khiang Glaciers and were ready to start reconnaissance on May 24 from Base Camp at something over 14,000 feet. The route attempted up the southwest ridge by the Swiss in 1959 looked too long to them and they preferred the British route of 1957, which winds up the south face. Camp I lay at 18,700 feet. Between there and Camp II at 21,235 feet the route was very nearly cut by a crevasse with a vertical upper wall. Camp III was just off the face on the western ridge at 23,000 feet. Until then, the weather had been nearly perfect, but on the morning of June 9 it appeared to be breaking. Consequently at 10:30 Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart left for the summit. Late in the afternoon they arrived at a little col between two peaks. They chose one but after arriving, noticed that the other was higher and so climbed that one too. They were back in camp, frostbitten, at 9:30 p.m. The storm broke and the climbers with Stefan, who had awaited them in the high camp, had several days of struggle under frightful conditions to reach Base Camp. Other members of the party were Herbert Raditschnig and Gottfried Mayr.

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