American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Cerro Pier Giorgio, Patagonia

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Cerro Pier Giorgio, Patagonia. The Cerro Pier Giorgio (ca. 9500 feet) lies northwest of Lake Viedma, closing in on the north the valley of the Torre Glacier. This glacier descends from Pier Giorgio between FitzRoy and the Cerro Torre, which are situated about three miles southeast and south of the former. The first of two expeditions organized by the Centro Andino Buenos Aires ascended the Río FitzRoy to the Laguna Torre in mid-January, 1960. They established Camp I at the foot of the Cerro Mocho and Camp II on an icefall of the Pier Giorgio Glacier. It stormed continuously in February and the attempt had to be abandoned in early March.

The second group, consisting of Juan José Quintas, leader, Osvaldo Biondini, Carlos Bottazzi, Oscar Reali, Leda and Luis Tofanelli, left Buenos Aires by air on December 4, 1960. Again very adverse weather conditions prevented the ascent. Base Camp was pitched on the shores of the Laguna Torre, Camp I below the Cerro Mocho, Camp II at the base of the Aguja Cuatro Dedos and Camp III at the foot of the rock wall of the peak itself above the icefall of the Pier Giorgio Glacier. Having established the camps by the end of December, the climbers could discern a direct route up the rock wall that offered hopes of success. Climatic conditions, especially the hurricane winds which are characteristic of the region, prevented a final assault. There were only four good days scattered through the eighty-two spent in the field.

Juan José Quintas, Centro Andino Buenos Aires

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