American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Ecuador, Oxford University Explorartion Club Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1961

Oxford University Exploration Club Expedition. P. J. Grubb, leader, M. R. Emerson, Dr. R. H. Johnson, J. R. Lloyd, T. R. Pennington, and T. C. Whitmore visited Mount Antisana (18,886 feet) and the foothills east of it from early July to mid-October. We were primarily interested in the botany of the region. We made a detailed survey of two forest areas, one near Borja at 5600 feet and the other near Tena at 1800 feet, a general survey of the paramo vegetation from 13,000 feet to snow line, and a detailed survey of the main, largest ice-tongue on the western side of Antisana and one farther north. On August 6 Emerson and Johnson attempted an ascent of Antisana (first ascent by E. Whymper with J. A. and L. Carrel, March 9, 1880.—Editor.) in the company of members of the Club Nuevos Horizontes in Quito under the leadership of Sr. Jack Bermeo, who climbed the mountain in 1952. Bermeo’s previous route up the northwest face was followed, but it was found that a schrund 100 to 200 meters below the rounded summit was now impassable, a substantial snow-bridge having disappeared. It might still be possible to climb the mountain by a long traverse to the eastern side and the end of this schrund, which is fully 30 feet wide. The western glaciers are all severely crevassed.

Peter J. Grubb, Oxford University Exploration Club

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