American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Although a threatening overcast obscured the sun on the cold morning of August 16, I joined Layton Kor, who had been considering this route for several years, and together we climbed rapidly to the lower left corner of the face. The first 1000 feet is a fantastically smooth slab at a constant angle of 60°, above which the face steepens considerably. We climbed 300 feet in a right diagonal line where we found a large ledge that crosses the face. Following this ledge right to its end, we ascended a left diagonal line for another 400 feet until it was possible to traverse back to the right to the base of a left diagonal roof which we climbed in two leads, using direct aid, with a stirrup belay halfway. Two leads more of free climbing placed us at the top of the giant slab on a pedestal from which I managed to pendulum to a crack, and after a delicate lead of —VI, a belay spot was found. The next lead up an inside right corner was also strenuous. Using a piton that sank as I moved on it, I reached a good handhold that led to easier territory. The last problem was a short face leading to the righthand ridge. We reached the summit 300 feet above as the first flakes of snow hit us. The face had taken 8½ hours, and some 55 pitons were used to complete this climb, the longest on Pigeon Spire. The rock, in keeping with the Bugaboo tradition, was excellent.

Edward Cooper

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