American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Although a threatening overcast obscured the sun on the cold morning of August 16, I joined Layton Kor, who had been considering this route for several years, and together we climbed rapidly to the lower left corner of the face. The first 1000 feet is a fantastically smooth slab at a constant angle of 60°, above which the face steepens considerably. We climbed 300 feet in a right diagonal line where we found a large ledge that crosses the face. Following this ledge right to its end, we ascended a left diagonal line for another 400 feet until it was possible to traverse back to the right to the base of a left diagonal roof which we climbed in two leads, using direct aid, with a stirrup belay halfway. Two leads more of free climbing placed us at the top of the giant slab on a pedestal from which I managed to pendulum to a crack, and after a delicate lead of —VI, a belay spot was found. The next lead up an inside right corner was also strenuous. Using a piton that sank as I moved on it, I reached a good handhold that led to easier territory. The last problem was a short face leading to the righthand ridge. We reached the summit 300 feet above as the first flakes of snow hit us. The face had taken 8½ hours, and some 55 pitons were used to complete this climb, the longest on Pigeon Spire. The rock, in keeping with the Bugaboo tradition, was excellent.

Edward Cooper

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.