North America, Canada, British Columbia, Howser Peak, North Face, Bugaboos

Publication Year: 1961.

Howser Peak, North Face, Bugaboos. Eric Bjornstad joined me to climb this seldom visited Bugaboo peak in late July. We crossed a bergschrund below and to the right of a giant, menacing ice cliff, then headed up a 50° snow finger between the ice and a rock face on the right. Several close avalanches, together with very unstable snow, gave us such a scare that we moved onto the rock face. This proved a dubious choice as the rock was so rotten that we dared not rope up as the mere action of the rope sent rocks down. We reached the top of this with relief and found firm snow for step-kicking leading up at 50° for 300 feet to the summit snow-field.

Edward Cooper